direct HDMI -> USB UTV0007 grabber - anybody have experience with this?

I just recently found this device that claims to be of the UTV007 chipset and accept an HDMI connection directly.

Could be a great resource for those of use using USB grabbers since it will eliminate a piece of hardware!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Nse...-Card-Converter-USB-2-0-HD-1/32827676511.html

At $17 as of writing this, I may pick one up to experiment with if nobody else has!

 

I picked one up. It works with some caveats. it gets Extremely hot. I put heatsinks on the one I bought and recorded a 140F on the outside of the large black heatsink.
Also it back feed's power too the USB port from the HDMI port, (might be why it gets so hot) so if you need to reboot the Rpi you well need to completely unplug the grabber so everything can reboot.

I'm not to sure about this one.



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Hope it helps.

 

Hey thanks for the reply!

Wow I gotta say, that isn't a problem I would have anticipated it having! What resolution were you running that one at?

I decided to grab one since they are so cheap (the least I can do to give back to this community is document my folly so someone else can learn from it), maybe heat problems are why most of the devices are in metal housings. Are those heat sinks anything specific you picked up, or did you just cut some down to size?

 

720 X 480.

Had them laying around. I believe the silver one's are 8x8mm and the black one is 10X15mm. Just eye balled them not a actual.

I haven't had a chance to run a very long test. The power back feed is from the hdmi to the usb is bugging me. I've tried adding a diode to the 5v+ on the usb side to allow currant to flow only from the usb to the hdmi. It kinda works but the grabber never is truly powered off, and when starting the Rpi it well not recognize the usb grabber till it is also power cycled.

Adding a diode to the 5v+ on the hdmi cable did not have the desired effect, I lost audio (i think that was the 5v+ wire in the hdmi cable).

I also bought a couple of known working utv007 grabbers and hdmi to rca converters as well.

 

I picked a few of these up, they definitely clean up the wiring cabinet a bit as I no longer need to convert HDMI to CBVS back to USB. I can report the same 'power feedback' and heat issues present on my sticks, however, I am (read: taking a risk) taking advantage of the feedback and powering my Pi Zero W over it. I understand that I am forgoing the 'fused' circuit by backpowering through the OTG port to VBUS, but im okay with the risk of a $5 pi. my understanding is that there is 50mv on a +5v line on hdmi, and while that's not enough to ever power a Zero, I am assuming the power from my cheapo HDMI 1x2 splitter is carrying over, as when I unplug power to the splitter, the LEDs stay dimly lit on the splitter, but the Pi does not stay powered. I did not change any software settings for this, purely swapped out my HDMI to CBVS -> Fuchai USBTV Grabber circuit for a HDMI to USB USBtv007 chip. I have not noticed any issues running in this fashion for the past week, outside of an extremely warm HDMI to USB adapter. I will say the screenshots look noticeably clearer, and less distortion is present in the grabber image. the LEDs seem to be responding faster, but that may be purely a placebo on account that im staring at the lights now looking for issues.

 

$10, unless you know something I don't. Please tell =)

 

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486575/zero_w

 

And a short drive away.
Much appreciated!

 

That is exactly where my mind went with this too... Would we be able to run a pi zero off the HDMI power... Well thanks for putting your hardware on the line! Please let us know if you run into any trouble!

 

Glad I could be of assistance. hopefully you aren't draining the inventory of the same store location as me

Sorry for the late response, life has gotten busy and haven't had much free tinker time. The only issue I have experienced is randomly (maybe twice in the last month) the lights will stop working and require a full reboot of the PI. I attempted restarting hyperion through hypercon, but to no avail. haven't had a chance to look in the logs, but I'm almost certain the backpower browns or spikes (I have an old beer fridge on the same circuit that shunts the line when it starts the compressor) and the USB grabber loses connection and needs to be rebooted to re-recognize due to the power feedback issue.


Anyone else running a backpowered pi with this setup that can chime in?
for anyone that still wants one, here is the cheapest I've found: https://www.fasttech.com/p/8589800

 

ordered one too, since I think my utv0007 has terrible colors (was some cheap china item too).

Note that the background is white and not dimmed

 

Hi, i try both devices (USB Video grabber with HDMI convert to CBVS or this HDMI USB Video grabber) and on all of this deivices i see green line. HDMI convert to CBVS looks works, i check it in my TV.

This is my command to take screenshot at Raspberry pi ZERO
hyperion-v4l2 -v PAL --crop-left 16 --crop-right 20 --crop-top 5 --crop-bottom 46 -f 2 -s 0 --screenshot --input 0

Some idea?

thanks

 

So this will have no effect in the result?

 

Have anyone tried feeding this a 4K signal? HDR/DV? Does it work or do I need some kind of converter/scaler in between?
I know the specs says up to [email protected] but I did a very quick test with my HDMI to RCA and the standard grabber and I got picture with higher resolution than 1080p, unfortunately I wasn't able to test with 4K.

 

I tried one, but seems that in 24p mode, the capture is wrong. It's like the image is displaced to left...so the right side it's black. Anyone?



[email protected] it's working perfectly, but at 24 hz...see the pic.

 

I like many of you purchased the Nsendato HDMI USB grabber to cut down on the components strapped to the back of my TV. I wasn't sure if I'd need drivers or anything but it was a straight swap out of the pi and everything seemed good initially. I actually love the color accuracy so much more. I actually have leds turning off now bc the grabber is getting true black from the source. I do have a problem where I can't figure out why the image is getting cropped slightly on the pi. Are there settings on the Pi where I could adjust. I can't see anything in hypercon that fixes my crop. I have it set to not crop at all.

Here's my BIGGER problem... all of a sudden my Fire TV now pauses every couple of minutes and it doesn't matter what I'm watching. I'm suspecting a power issue bc the issue is very similar to what would happen when I unplugged power to my splitter before. There must be some sort of CEC control in the splitter and Fire TV detects something and pauses the video upon loss of that signal??

Anyway, I have a supply just for the Pi and HDMI splitter. I thought maybe I don't have enough power but based on what I read here, there's some sort of back feed going on? I'm no expert so wondering if there's anything I can do to stop this annoyance. My supply is 5A but if I need to get a bigger one, that's no problem. Just wanted to get thoughts on whether that may solve the issue or if I need to do something else.

 

About cropping.

The one I bought has a crop problem as well (I [email protected]). I don't use it anymore.

Some hdmi2av converters I've purchased have the same exact problem. I don't use those either. (Same chip set is used in both, is my guess.)

Just a thought.

 

So how are you capturing the video for hyperion? Or are you just using the internal frame grabber?